The Mustang was always a favorite of mine. I was born one year before the idea from Ford was about to hit the world in the face. The Mustang began in 1961 as a project car. They called it a T-5, and from there, many clay models were built and scraped. Another name you may recognize is Lee Iacocca. There were several models made of the Mustang, some in my eyes were just hideous, well, compared to what was released to the public. From an experimental 2 seater in 1962, to the unveiling of the Mustang in the autumn of 1964. The Mustang captivated the public and sold nearly one million, yes, one million Mustangs that first year alone! The hard top listed for about $2400.00. That’s hard to take thinking you cant touch an original numbers matched Mustang these days for that.(Well, unless you have that story about a little ol’lady owned it and didn’t know what she had! That doesnt happen these days.) From that point on the Mustang grew into people’s lives as it did into mine. And to think the best was yet to come.
Carroll Shelby, do I need say any more, sure I do. Carroll Shelby was born in 1923, in Leesburg, Texas. Carroll created the GT-350 2+2 in 1965.A special high performance Cobra, specially tuned 306-BHP Mustang. Lee Iacocca wanted a corvette beater and knew Carroll was the one guy that could do it! They had a great relationship for a long time but unfortunately Carroll didn’t like the way things were going so he departed Dearborn Plant in 1970. Would it be surprising if I told you he worked with Lee Iacocca at Chrysler to work with him on the Dodge Viper? Well he did in the 80’s. But after a lot of controversy over "counterfeit" Cobras, Carroll Shelby once again returned in 1999 to make the new Series 1, Cobra! And history goes on to the new retro look in the new 2005 GT-500 Mustang. I wont bore you with other names like, Jack Roush, and Saleen!

Mustangs, from a Notch back, Fast back, convertible, Ghia styles in the late ‘70’s to the Mustang II, not my favorite, well, except for the Cobra II my mother owned! To the 5.0 Fox body, the SN95, to the retro 2005 Mustang. Wow, it has been fun and it is only going to get better.
I hope you enjoyed a little history and now get out there and get your Mustang Aftermarket Autoparts today!

I thought to myself, what would I do with a Supercharger in my Mustang? Well I would have to say I would boost horsepower, but would never think that I could still use it as a daily driver! That was just the thing I had to hear. But now your talking headers, High Flow mufflers, H-Pipe, and more fuel, more air, the list can keep on going. Well now, like I said you can do upgrades without pulling the gas station behind you. In reality there are products that can help in gas mileage as well. But be real, are you going to keep your foot out of it, I dont think so. So what I am saying, you can mount a supercharger up to your stock engine, just have to watch how much boost you put in it, and with a little programing, possibly some bigger fuel injectors, that normally will come with the kit, is all you need! what are you waiting for, go get it MAN!

There are also a lot of cosmetic upgrades for under the hood. At least if you don’t want to pump the power, you can still look good, RIGHT! I like to dress up the hoses, radiator and such. There are some nice looking braided hose kits avalible that are easy to install and really make a difference in the looks under the hood. And why stop there when you can get some sweet aftermarket valve covers. Another nice look is to get them power coated. But you have to go without your ride for a bit till they are done. Lots of crome caps for all the nessasary oil, brake, radiator. Crome dip sticks…You got the idea!

I believe one of the easiest ways to get a bit of performance out of your Mustang and also a little noise, that would be exhaust systems. Exhaust systems come in many different types, so it is best to do your research! Stainless, mandrel bent pipe, H-pipe, X-pipe, high flow mufflers. I think you got the picture, or you can hear it! Headers, now if you are going to purchase some headers, do your self a favor and buy some good quality headers. Look at the flange thinkness, the pipe, whats it made of. Remeber the ol saying, you get what you pay for, well with headers that is exactly TRUE! Do you like to wrench on your ride more than you like to drive it,,,buy quality man!

I want to talk a little about cold air induction. I just love it when I see a guy open his hood and tells me he has cold air induction, when in fact all he has is HOT air induction. You know what I am talking about, he has that little piece of pipe coming off his mass air unit. HA! I say that because any time you put an open air filter that breaths from under your hood, you get what, hot air induction. Now some of you are saying, my factory air filter is under the hood!! Well yes it is, but it is pulling the air from the outside. That is why it is all boxed up and hard to get to when you wana change it. True cold air induction is and most of the time pulled in from outside the hood. Mine is located in the fender well. Some pull right from the hood. The hood has built in air inlets. Also some of us know this as Ram Air as well. There is a sweet air kit for the newer 2005 better, they have a great looking kit that pulls in right in the center front of the hood. great look and it is FUNCTIONAL!

OK All. I have gotten some slack about the cold air induction. Now yea I can say if your ride is set up for quarter mile runs, you may run a filter under the hood, but not for a daily driver. You want to pull cooler air into your engine. Cool air means more gas and GO!

OK, did I touch on suspension parts. I tell you when I lowered my Mustang it made a world of difference in the way it handled. Not that you are pulling all kinds of G-Force out on the road but it feels more like you have to drive it then it just lumbering down the road. You can order kits that come complete. I would recommend having this done by a professional! But you can buy the kit and then have an athorized machanic install it for you. I say this because there are dangers in pulling of springs, so dont get caught up in it and end up hurting yourself. Most kits, as well, come with aftermarket sway bars, shocks, neoprene bushings, etc…. Again this is a place you want to do your homework!  Now dont go and take a heat torch and start heating up your springs so they will collapse and lower your car. Danger man , Danger! And believe me, I have heard guys doing this!

There are a lot of computer upgrade programmers as well on the market. Mine is a Hypertech, and it was very easy to install. Just plug and play. And the best deal about it, I can plug it in and upload it. What I am getting at is with the programmer, I was running high-octane gas, so when the prices were getting high, I took the programmer off and was able to run lower octane.  So alot of times I would buy say, 89 octane and then add octane booster. Remember I drive my Stang as a daily driver in the summer. Yea, I can tell a difference without the programmer, but it isn’t like the end of the world!

Well I hope I was able to touch on a couple of items for you. Remember, check it out first before you buy. Do you homework. Be careful whom you buy from. Often men, well myself anyway, will get tunnel vision and all we do is go buy it. Then when we get home, opps….and then you hear that little noise in the back ground, told ya so….

There are a few items you need to consider before purchasing those aftermarket wheels. The first that comes to my mind is size. Your automobile was designed for a certain size of wheel, Not saying that you can’t put on a different size tire and or wheel, but you have to do some homework before you just purchase a set and attempt to have them mounted on your ride. Clearance issues are of a concern is why I bring up sizes! Most certified Tire Stores could be very helpful in what you are looking for. It is as easy as telling them what year, make and model that your car is. Now, you can go to different types of wheels other than what is specified for your automobile. You may get into aftermarket suspensions. Another item of concern is what type of driving you will be doing. Very important, and speaking more or less about Off-Road use on pick-ups. Again, it is very important to have a certified tire specialist help you determine what would be best for you want.

Care and maintenance is also something to think about. Wheels come in chrome, aluminum alloy, painted etc. It is up to you and your driving conditions, and climate conditions on what you should chose. Chrome is a very nice looking wheel, but I can tell you that it takes a lot of maintenance to keep them looking good. And if you live where you are subject to salt being poured out onto the roadways, it can make it very difficult to keep clean. If you dive your automobile in the winter, then I suggest holding onto the factory wheels and tires and have them mounted on in the winter. Aluminum alloy that looks like chrome when they are clean is a nice substitute, but very hard to maintain that look as well. It takes excessive cleaning in keeping them looking their best. My all time favorite is painted wheels. They can be maintained very easily, can be run through the entire year and with very little problems to the painted serface. A little wheel cleaner and protectant and your good to go!

Again, there are all kinds of styles, just look around and find the one that catches your eye. Remember it is an extension of your taste on your sweet Mustang or any other ride you may own.

Lets see, door handles, door knobs, dash inserts, shift knobs, a little doggie in the back window and his head moves up n down when you go down the road…man it is endless….So this is where you can get creative and do it up like you want to do it up. Remember, you are the one that is going to be sitting in the drivers seat and looking at all of it!

Hey, have you always wanted that "Billet" look to your Mustang? Well, you can do it! I know you can!

How about a body kit. Take your coupe or your GT and make it any style you like. Well at least what is available out there and there is a lot of availability. You like that GT500 look, or maybe that Eleanor body. Huh! Yea baby, now your talking! With the amount of hands on I have had on installing body kits, most fit up very well. Sometimes it takes a bit of "Finesse" but you will find most fit very well!

A hood change is very impressive as well. A few hundred bucks and "BAM" you got a new look. Well, a little paint to go with it and your all good. If not the entire hood, then a hood scoop. You can order them and the come factory painted and ready to bolt on! 

I am not going to get into the process of the "How To" on washing and waxing but to only discuss a few items and some questions that I receive from many of my friends. They know how particular I am about my ride looking good!

There are many car care products out on the market today. From Miquiers, to Turtle Wax, and even exotic specialty polishes and waxes. It is really up to the end user on what they like as well as what they are trying to acheave. There are many different tyeps of polishes and waxes that do a variety of jobs for your cars paint serface. One question that I believe comes up alot is the difference between "Polishes" and "Waxes". This can be answered pretty easily. Polishes are made to do exactly what it says "Polish". Think about it this way, you use polish for your shoes and it makes them shine, well for a period of time. Same with your cars paint surface. On the other hand, waxes protect your cars paint surface. So, I recommend a "polish" inbetween your regular "wax" jobs. Another question that is asked is how long should I go between waxes. Well that is a good question and I can answer that by saying it depends on the climate that you live in and if the car is garaged or not. I always say at the least every 6 months. A good way to tell if your car needs a waxing, is how the water repells off of it or if it beads up or not. If it doesnt bead up, most likely you need a wax job. Athough, I have to say that there is a hand full of wax products that don’t bead water but rather the water runs off the car, like in sheets if you will.

If you have to get into a cleaning product and or rubbing compound for your paint serface, for instance, you have over spray on your finish, or heavy tar, sap, make sure you understand all there is to know about the product and the procedures in going about it. I mention this because you can do a lot of damage to your cars paint finish if you do not know what you are doing! Products like rubbing compounds are designed to be used with buffers and different types of buffing pads. If you are not a professional, don’t attempt it.  You can take off a lot of paint in no time! There are Detail shops all over the country that can do this type of work for you at a reasonable price. So, if it’s your next-door neighbor that was spraying his house with a paint sprayer and it found its way onto your cars finish, I am sure he has insurance that would cover a professional detailer!

I want to touch on "Car Wash" products a little. When you do attempt to wash you car, a few tips are good to know. Do it in a shady area. Good practice is, if you can hold you hand on the cars paint finish, like the hood and it doesnt burn you, then its cool enough to move forward. I see so may people washing their cars in the direct sun and that just makes the job harder. Never use a "Dish Wash" detergent on your cars paint finish. It will only strip away what wax you may have on it. A good "Car Wash" product is the best way to go. Also, do not get carried away with how much product you use. Some people think if it does not suds up out of the bucket its not enough. Not true! Use what the product recommends. Typically a cap full for a gallon of clean water. It will actually make you wash job easier and will make your car look like you care! Another washing tip is to always start at the top of your car and work your way down to the sides and then the rims and tires last. Doing this eliminates any heavy road grim to be pulled up and into your wash mitt and onto the top finishes. Oh yea, wash mitt, very suggestive as it works well to pull small particles away from the paint surface due to the long strands of fabric it is made with. Sponges tend to hold more dirt particles. I actually use a second bucket with clear water to rinse my mitt out into every so often. And always make sure to rinse completely as you go. So take it one section at a time. It’s all logical. Top to bottom!

 Tire dressing is a very important part of your cars clean look. Hey, how many cars to you see that have been washed but the tires and windows are still dirty, huh? This is the part of the "Detail" that needs to be done, and again the products out there make it very easy to do so. Very little time it takes to dress you tires, and OH, don’t forget to clean the brake dust off your rims as well. You should do that before dressing your tires.

As for the interior, a good vinyl and or leather protectant is good. Again there are so many different types on the market; you really have to find the one that works for you. NOW, as for protectants, they are not cleaners! So, if you smoke, or your cars interior is subject to harsh environments, then a good interior cleaner is recommended before applying the protectant. Protectants protect, cleaners clean! As for windows, I have tried all the ideas, using a window cleaner with newspaper, coffee filters, etc. I find the best way is a clean micro fiber towel, which is only used for cleaning windows! Dont use the one you just used for polishing. I always clean my windows last!

My last note: What is "Detail"? Detail is what makes your car look better than your neighbors, or the guys at the local drive-thru! When you clean your car and even if it is just washing it, clean you windows, clean your rims, and dress your tires. This will always set you apart from the average wash-n-go job! After waxing or polishing, clean the wax out form around the logos, and around the hood, door, and trunk panels. Clean off the wax you rubbed onto that black vinyl trim. (NOTE: I have been asked what is the best way to get that dry white wax off of the black rubber parts. Well one way is to use a small detail brush or old tooth brush. Once it is dry it should come off pretty good. Other wise, use some wax remover and that should take it off. There is a great product out by Turtle Wax. It is their ICE brand. This is a synthetic polish with silicone and hydrocarbon polymers that allow for it to be used on all of the cars surfaces. I use it on all of the exterior and it wipes right off the trim and leaves a great protection, such as Armorall does, but this cleans the surface, and thats a good thing! I am an Meguiars car guy myself, but this new ICE is a cool deal.) So remeber,  It’s all in the "ATENTION TO DETAIL"!